Hanuman and the Monkey Men

Temples to Hanuman are seen everywhere on the road to Patna. In Patna, there is a garish temple devoted to Hanuman near the train station. On the outskirts of town, there is the Danuba Military Academy. For the first time, we encounter the mistreatment of animals as two young, squealing pigs are taken upside down, legs bound, into the officers’ mess.

On the street, there are soldiers everywhere wearing hard expressions on their face. There is no shortage of saltpeter in this town. In simple Americanese, we observe, Dude, that’s the first Indian guy I’ve seen that looks like he can kick someone’s ass!

Posted at 04:00PM Jan 07, 2007 by D Bums Comments[0]

Violence - First Encounter

For the first time since arriving in India, we witness a show of violence. To this point, we are convinced that Indians are incapable of assault or anti-social behavior. At a traffic circle, there is a gathering of trucks. While passing through, we see one man chase another with a shovel and attempt to strike him over the head with it. Another man follows the man with the shovel and attempts to whack him with a bamboo stick. We pull away, having witnessed a gathering storm.

Posted at 01:36PM Jan 07, 2007 by D Bums Comments[0]

Bihar - The Bums Enter the Lawless Land

Going to Patna, we are warned by the innkeeper in Varanasi that Patna is full of cheaters. Do not go there! The Bums ignore the advice and head into Bihar on its way to Patna. Bihar is known as the most lawless and poverty stricken region in India and there are advisories against traveling in Bihar, particularly after dark. Thieves or dacoits have been known to drive people off the roads and rob them of everything.

Posted at 11:00AM Jan 07, 2007 by D Bums Comments[0]

Is Nothing Sacred?

Leaving Benares, the holiest Hindu city, D Bums spot a familiar sign. They pass a McDonald's, the first one seen so far in the Bums' adventure.

Posted at 09:00AM Jan 07, 2007 by D Bums Comments[0]

Charon and The River Styx

In the early morning light, a boat ferries passengers from the ghats of Varanasi to an open headland on the other side of the Ganges. It is unclear whether hell is the labyrinthine alleys of Benares or the great expanse on the other side.

Posted at 07:00AM Jan 07, 2007 by D Bums Comments[0]

Show Me Something Old! Damn! Not This Old!

    

We enter Varanasi or Benares late in the evening. It is one of the oldest living cities in human existence. The streets or, more appropriately, alleys of Varanasi are narrow and realistically should not accommodate motorized traffic. However, the streets are plied by cows, dogs, rickshaws, motorbikes, and people, leading to chaotic road scenes. Searching for our hotel, we turn down a road that is split in half due to road work. Driving through this narrow space, the chariot is scarred once again as the rear wheel panel scrapes against some concrete tubing and knocks down an oil drum serving as a barrier.

An angry policeman approaches and gives the chariot a whack with his wooden stick. I quickly drive away before he has a chance to ask for papers and delay our adventure any further.

Posted at 04:52PM Jan 06, 2007 by D Bums Comments[0]